Extracts Gold Coast Succulent and Bromeliad Society

 

The Gold Coast Succulent and Bromeliad Society Inc. publishes a Journal four times a year. We hope you enjoy these extracts from the 'Bromlink' Journal and find the information and time spent browsing, very pleasurable.

Extract from 'BROMLINK' Journal

Dated June - August 2004

The Brom Tree

In two years time, I am going to create a Brom Tree and I have begun the collection and preparation of plants ready for mounting. I have made a firm decision on the following plants:

Aechmea 'Bert' - I managed to obtain a very good clone of this plant. It has very upright foliage and glows with a solid pinkish sheen. It resists marking and will grow to about 50 cm high. A heavy plant, its' pups grow upwards and will be allocated a fork in the tree to start off.

Aechmea nudicaulis variegata - When I obtained this plant, it was tagged 'German clone'. It is the slimmest and tallest of the variegated nudicaulis, very upright with vivid iridescent gold margins. It is resistant to tip and margin burn.

Aechmea orlandiana - comes in many colour forms. I have selected two different clones, "Rainbow" which is a wide, fat plant with normal black markings amd a pink tinge and 'snowflake' which is a slightly bigger plant than 'rainbow'. The black markings are not as pronounced and it is very white. Each will have their own fork in the tree. They will climb both up and down the tree - they are true climbers with long stolons. They will take hard conditions without marking and the back of the foliage looks very attractive with the light shining through.

Billbergia 'Domingos Martins' - This is a small billbergia 20 -30 cm tall when grown hard. Darkish tip markings with black prominent spines. On dark green foliage there are silver bands and many white spots. The plant grows a perfect, tight, upright tube that resists marking.

Neoregelia hohneana - A small, 10cm tubular neoregelia that under bright conditions flushes purple. It throws its pups on the ends of wiry stolons that hang straight down. A display plant that landscapes the air.

Neoregelia pauciflora - I am going to use the miniature form, about 10 cm high. This species has long runners that in a tree situation may hang down or creep up the trunk. It will be set up in a minor fork in the tree. Its blue-green foliage with silver bands on the backs of the leaves with its very small dark spots make it attractive. It too resists marking.

Neoregelia 'Sheba' - A variegated neoregelia. I do not believe any bromeliad can grow in full sun in Queensland without getting those couple of bad weeks each year when they become damaged and you have to live with tatty foliage for months, but Neoregelia 'Sheba' might come pretty close. It has bright pink edges and is definitely hardy enough to resist burning.

Pitcairnia 'heterophylla' - It is a deciduous epiphyte in winter, or if it becomes dry, about 20 cm in diameter. This plant will find a home the south side of the tree in a crevice. I hope it does well. The flowers of this plant can be white, pink, red or orange as it emerges from winter dormancy.

Vriesea saundersii x Vriesea platynema - Comes in two variegated forms, a pink-edged albo-marginate plant amd a broad pink variegata form. In our climate they do well and resist tip burn because of their thick leathery leaves inherited from Vriesea saundersii. They need to be kept moist but will tolerate bright conditions. They will get branch forks about a metre from the ground.

Vriesea simplex - This plant has a tendency for the tips of the leaves to mark, but it will be allocated a position on the protected south side of the tree. The only reason I am using this plant is because I managed to obtain a clone which has the typical hanging inflorescence, but it is a metre long! The Vriesea is a mere 15 cm in diameter and height. It is an intriguing version of the species.
vriesea vagans - A 15cm diameter shiny green plant with black marking at the base of the leaves. It clumps very well, is burn resistant and looks good from underneath. It flowers about every three or four years and has an upright, fine, multi-bract inflorescence.

Quesnelia marmorata - I have this plant in four versions - Quesnelia marmorata, which is what I call the straight species because it was the first one I got. Quesnelia marmorata 'freckles' is the same as my original species, but is very heavily marked with brown spots - quite stunning. Quesnelia marmorata 'Curly Top' has the ends of the leaves heavily curled as if they had been trained on large hair curlers. Quesnelia marmorata 'Tim Plowman' is exactly the same with slightly more frosting and the spot markings are browner, more numerous and this plant is the most prominently marked plant of them all.

All these plants reach 50 cm and when mounted on a tree, hang naturally at a 45 degree angle in an upright postition from the tree. They will completely encircle a tree, making a significant clump, just under a metre in diameter. I am seriously considering putting a couple of posts to the side of the tree and mounting the various Quesnelia marmorata on them because I feel their size could overpower the tree display.

The silver leafed tillandsias in their many forms will occupy the top third of the tree and definitely no lower than half way down. Neoregelia 'Fireball' is a great plant for a brom tree, but I intend it to have a seperate display near the tree. I will give other plants a chance to flash their charms. I will no doubt use other aechmeas, vrieseas and billbergias, but the two criteria they must meet are - resistance to marking and an ability to produce a colourful display in the situation of being mounted and grown on the tree indefinitely.

At the base of the tree, nidulariums in pots will be the main feature, but there will be many other foliage broms that thrive in these conditions.

Plants such as canistrum giganteum, which takes the shade and with its pale green foliage giving the impression it is translucent and marked with dark green spots it always looks good. Vriesea elata, as a clump, always seems to be in flower and this will have a permanent home.
To establish a clump of broms as quickly as possible on a tree, you need to start with four or five pups of the same plant. Remember from my plant descriptions some broms will prefer the north or sunny side of the tree, whereas others will prefer more shade on the southern side. So, when selecting plants, you will need a variety of both.

If the branch is about 150mm select two pots that have a diameter difference of 25-35 mm. (N.B. The diameter of the pots is immaterial, but the variation of 25 to 35 mm is important). You could use for example, a 175mm and a 150mm pot. Place one pot inside the others as in Diagram 1.

Fill the space between the pots with a fine, open mix and force the pups down into the mix with all the knees facing the same direction, They will soon root and can stay like this until you are ready to mount them. The root system, when the pots are removed, will form a flat mat, making them easy to mount. I place the mat of plants on the tree, cover the root system with the shields of an old elkhorn and bind the lot into place with a bandage of knitted shade cloth. After about six months of good growth, when the plants are firmly attached to the tree, the shade cloth can be removed. Should the old elkhorn shields not remain tight against the root ball after the removal of the shade cloth bandage, fishing line will hold the shields tight and remain unobtrusive.

A large, tubular billbergia because of it's height, or a neo because of it's top heavy shape (Diagram 2), may need support to make sure its weight does not pull its base away from the tree. The initial root system will emerge from below the knee cap area of the pup (Diagram 3) and if the stolon is actually touching the tree, the root system will then be in the best postition to give good initial support, until the brom pups and bunches up.

Cut a stocking into 100mm widths like rubber bands. Cut the circles and if necessary tie two together for sufficient length. A firm loop tied off as high up the plant as possible (Diagram 4), then tie the loose ends very tightly around the tree to restrict movement. WIth the shade cloth bandage around the base of the plant and the stolon touching the tree, the root system should have its best opportunity to anchor the brom firmly. This support is necessary if the plants attached are big and in windy, open areas. The first pup should emerge from just above the knee cap area.
This brom tree is a big undertaking that has been put off for more than three years as I gathered the plants together. I would like to place the plants on the tree during autumn, to give them a chance to be established in case we have a hot, dry, windy summer. I will try for autumn 2005. There will be two independent systems so that watering will be satisfactory. Permanent bases concreted into place, disguised, so the footings of the scaffolding will be stable. This is so maintainence can be carried out quickly and with safety.
The two year time table to finish this tree, now that it has been committed to words, is going to hang over my head like the Sword of Damacles.
Under the Mango Tree by John Catlin

Potting Mix

At the April meeting, I presented an experiment I carried out with alcantareas; the potting mix for growing trees and shrubs at a rapid rate in a nursery when adequately watered every day, may not be satisfactory when the trees and shrubs, as mature plants are planted out. The soil must have sufficient water holding capacity that the plants survive the first couple of months until they are established on their new location, maybe as main roads plantings. I hope you are nodding your head with understanding.
The problem with the alcantareas resulted from a grower moving his alcantareas out of his shade house into his garden as a landscape feature. All the tips of the leaves burnt off and they looked awful. The reason was that the plants could not obtain enough water to replace the loss from the leaves, so the tips burnt. If the conditions had been just too bright, the burn marks would have been at the curve where the older leaves drooped down. They were not, it was a water replacement problem.
The experiment used two soil mixes.
TYPE 1 - Particles 2mm -5mm with 12% coarse Canadian blonde peat
TYPE 2 - particles 5mm - 12mm with 12% coarse Canadian blonde peat.
Type 1 mix holds more moisture because the particles are smaller. This gives the plant a greater buffering effect against dryness because the root system of the plant has more readily available moisture, and because all the particles below 2mm were removed and replaced by blonde Canadian peat, the mix also had adequate aeration. There has to be a balance between aeration and moisture content for the plants to flourish.
Having my normal luck, with this experiment running, we should have had the wettest year in history. We didn't, it was very hot and dry. This relates to a different experiment, but one night it was 8:30 pm and it was 42 degrees C

The alcantareas were potted up one half in Type 1 mix, the other half in Type 2 mix. All the plants were mixed up together and placed together. We had our hell of a summer. In April, there were seperated into two groups with different mixes. The fine Type 1 mix came through with one burnt leaf, with the coarse Type 2 mix all plants had burnt tips on the leaves.
The moral of the story is although the potting mix must suit the plant, it must also take into account the micro-climate the plant is growing in.
By John Catlin

CULTIVAR CORNER

Derek Butcher, BSI Cultivar Registrar

It is odd how some names persist for years even though the grower believes them to be incorrect. One example is Aechmea fulgens var.discolor ‘Variegata’. I shudder at the improper usage of the Latin term variegata instead of variegated but that is another story.

Eleven years ago, Harry Luther pointed out in this journal [JBS 42(1):8.1992] that true Aechmea fulgens and Aechmea miniata are rare in cultivation, but their hybrids abound. In 2003, Helga Tarver, one of my keen investigative colleagues on the Cultivar front, pointed out that Aechmea fulgens var. discolor ‘Variegata’ was clearly of hybrid origin because it had an inflorescence which was branched at the top. It needed a cultivar name!

Reference to the Bromeliad Cultivar Registry revealed a plant that could well be linked to our problem. I contacted Reginald DeRoose who confirmed that ‘his’ plant could well be the plant in question. He sent me a photograph of Aechmea ‘Reginald’ which will become part of the on-line Bromeliad Cultivar Registry. This agrees with the plant that Helga grows and the plant that is being grown in Australia as Aechmea fulgens var.discolor ‘Variegata’.

If you have information that refutes this, please advise, otherwise I suggest you change the name on your label to Aechmea ‘Reginald’.

Reprinted from the Journal of the Bromeliad Society Volume 54(1): 1-48 January February 2004

MAY 2004 MEETING PLANT OF THE MONTH - AECHMEA.

AECHMEA a large popular genus to be found growing from central Mexico to Argentina as an epiphyte*, a terrestrial* or a saxicole*. It was named by Ruiz and Pavon in 1794 after the Greek ‘aechmea’ spear tip referring to the points on the perianth*.

Plants tabled for Show and Tell were Aechmea orlandiana and Aechmea fosteriana. Both of these plants are species and when hybridized produced Aechmea Bert. This particular hybrid was registered in 1945. Aechmea Bert variegata was tabled for discussion, as well as Aechmea orlandiana CV. ‘Ensign’. The growers suggested that this plant prefers to grow relatively dry and in a high position close to the roof in their shadhouse. Aechmea chantinii CV. ‘Samurai’ was also discussed. This same plant had also been discussed last year and even though it had since flowered and produced offsets was still a particularly attractive plant.The flower head was in berry and it was pointed out to members that the plant had two ripe blue berries which contained seed. Aechmea chantinii CV. ‘Samurai’ can be a little unstable at times - in that the yellow lines and banding do not always appear on the offsets. The plant on show had been producing stable offsets and as with all the plants tabled – produced offsets on strong woody stolons, which would indicate that all would do very well growing in trees.

*epiphyte -- a plant growing on another or on some object as a means of support only and deriving its needed moisture and nutriments from the air.

*terrestrial -- growing in the ground and supported by soil as opposed to growing in trees or water.

*saxicole -- Growing on rocks.

*perianth -- the floral envelope taken as a whole
consisting of the sepals and petals.

By Narelle Aizlewood
Reference was made to A Bromeliad Glossary – The Bromeliad Soc. Inc. for descriptions and definitions.

Extract from 'BROMLINK' Journal

Dated March - May 2004

Tribute to Olwen Ferris

It is with much regret that I have to inform members of the passing of our Patroness Mrs Olwen Ferris, who was one of the founders of our society. In the few short years that I knew her I found her to be a very warm and wonderful lady with an excellent knowledge of Bromeliads. She will be sadly missed.

By Pat Ross - from President's Report

 

GRACE GOODE OAM

Grace Goode has been a member of our Society since 11.10.97 . Hearing recently that she had been recognized for her “Service to Horticulture through the culture and hybridization of bromeliads” and had been awarded the Order of Australia Medal in the 2004 Australia Day Honours List, I was prompted to ring and congratulate Grace. Further, I submitted this article acknowledging her and her achievements.

Grace was born in Nambour and grew up on the Maroochy River and the environs.

Grace lives at Kate Street, Alexandra Headlands on the Sunshine Coast and on moving there in about 1953/54 she found the salt air from the sea didn't agree with all the plants in her garden. She was introduced to Bromeliads by her mother who gave her a plant later identified by Olwen Ferris as Billbergia Pyramidalis Concolour.

Early plants in her collection were Neoregelia concentrica, Neoregelia carolinae tricolour, Billbergia amoena and Billbergia nutans and Portea petropolitana var extensa. Over the past 30 years she has hybridized Billbergias, Cryptanthus and Neoregelias creating more than 800 neoregelias - not all with registered names. Grace said she was never interested in Tillandsia, Guzmania and Vriesea seed because it was too slow. She is known world wide for hybrids such as Neoregelia Charm, Neoregelia One and Only, Neoregelia Amazing Grace and Neoregelia Mandela, after the South Africian human rights icon Nelson Mandella.

Grace is a Life Member of the Bromeliad Society of Australia Inc., the Bromeliad Society of Qld. Inc. and the Cairns Bromeliad Society Inc., and she is also a Honorary Trustee and Charter Member of the Cryptanthus Society Inc. and also a Honorary Trustee of the Bromeliad Society Inc. She has travelled to conferences in the U.S.A. 4 or 5 times and has attended conferences in the Phillipines, Hawaii and recently in New Zealand.

Grace was well into her 50's when she was introduced to Bromeliads and her only regret is that she hadn't found out about them earlier. One can only imagine the list of plants to her name had she had an earlier start. At the age of 86 years she still works seven days a week in her garden called “Bromania” She is a delight to speak with and an absolute wealth of knowledge and she has been known to tell the odd joke or two. She is a true inspiration to us all and it is my privilege to say that I have known Grace Goode.

On behalf of the Committee and members of the Gold Coast Succulent and Bromeliad Society Inc. we asked Grace if she would kindly accept the position of Honorary Member of the Society for the year 2004 and she has graciously accepted.

By Narelle Aizlewood

CRYPTANTHUS EXPERIENCE
(reprinted from Bromeliaceae, July/August 1996) By Grace Goode OAM

Cryptanthus are endemic mostly to Brazil where it is summer all the year round', so their first requirement is warmth. They are terrestrials and are rarely found as epiphytes. they will grow well in shade houses, if the humidity is well maintained, perhaps by automated mist or sprinkler system.

The most helpful guide to good growing is information about the habitat from which the species came and try to simulate the same conditions. They are sometimes found in full sun, but mainly prefer the filtered light or shade in coastal regions and forests of East Brazil. The temperature there ranges from 20 degrees to 28 degrees celsius.

They will grow in most types of soil, but in culture, African violet mixture is recognised as most suitable. There are many mixtures used for Cryptanthus, but my preference is for mainly peat moss with added charcoal and coarse river sand. They will grow in just peat moss but need foliar feeding and granular feeding at the base oftheplant. The best medium forgetting roots on offsets is pure peat moss.

It is very difficult to find squat pots suitable for growing Cryptanthus. Preferably they should be no more than 8cm deep and 10 to 15 cnis in diameter. The nearest to this I have found are the round squat tubs used by the margarine manufacturers. Some African violet growers obtain pots ideal for growing Cryptanthus, but I do not know the source. Growers of our 'Earth Stars' are not many so the plastic pot manufacturers see no necessity to make these pots for a small clientele. The smaller Cryptanthus, such as that little charmer, 'Ruby', 'B ivittatus', 'Cafe Au Lait', 'Coffee Royal', 'Acaulis' and others do well in large saucers which are used under big pots, about 30 cins or more in diameter and 5 cins to 7.5 cnis deep. I have used the large terracotta saucers with some success, (after having them suitably modified for drainage holes) but they are inclined to dry out too quickly. They are most suitable for growers with automated sprinkler systems.

Cryptanthus root systems usually extend out to the extent of the leaves. The roots grow laterally, that is why I like a wide pot. I have not seen a well grown Cryptanthus without a good root system. 1 have seen average crypts without roots, only because the plant was kept damp and foliar fed. I guess the plants felt no need for a large root growth when the feeding was from above and absorbed by the leaves.

Initially I tried to grow my Cryptanthus in the garden. I cleared an area under a calliandra tree, sheltered from the westerly winds and getting filtered morning sun. I was at a loss to understand why they looked miserable. An experienced grower said "Pull them up and you will soon find out". I did so and was appalled to find their roots covered in mealy bug. Some had no roots at all. If Cryptanthus are too dry, mealy bugs thrive. I dipped thern all to remove the bugs, then I placed corrugated fibrolite roofing on the ground and placed the potted plants on top. Reasoning that the mealy bugs came out of the soil, I sealed off the ends of the fibrolite, hoping to keep the channels filled with water. This was a failure too, as the fibrolite soaked up the water in no time. At that time we had no reticulated water system and all the plants had to be hand watered. With only tanks, one had to be careful with the water. The mealy bug infested the pots again, much to my disgust. New horizons opened up when reticulated water was laid on.

On my north facing verandah, I nailed 6 inch wide boards to the railings. On this I placed foam troughs, which are sold by nurseries and big stores. The longer troughs are the best, as they have a reinforcing bridge across the centre. I used old fence palings, cracked and worn from years of service as a fence. Imadeaplatform from a paling, cut to fit down in the trough, with two small pieces nailed on each end, the bridge in the middle being the middle foot of the platform. I poured water to the level of the platform, which readily absorbed the water. The crypts in their pots were placed on the platform and they thrived. The trough will take from 5 to 6 plants depending on their size. The veranda was enclosed with 50% shade cloth. The sun streamed in at winter time, and in summer, when they did not need the hot sun, the overhang from the roof, sheltered them. I found it an ideal way to grow my crypts. With over 100 pots to water on the verandah, the task of carrying buckets of water up 12 steps became a chore. I could not use the hose as the verandah boards would deteriorate and as it was, and careful as I could be, they were already showing signs of rot. I commend this method to growers who can use the hose to fill their containers and keep the water to the level of the platforms. This method will do equally well in shade and in glass houses.

I tried the wick system used by African Violet growers. At last, I thought I had found the ultimate. I used clear plastic tubs as the water containers, so 1 could watch the water level. The potted crypts were placed on top of the water container with the wick, supplying the water. It should have been successful, but life was not meant to be easy, the algae grew in the water pots, a slimy mess. I was forever cleaning the slime off the tubs, even using steel wool, as the algae just loved living in that water. I tried fungicide, but even that could not stop the algae. I do not know what the African Violet growers do, to overcome this problem. So, another great scheme went the way of all schemes.

I saw a nursery in Florida which grew their plants on a slightly slanted bed of underfelt. Old carpet would do as well. This was watered from the top, the water permeating to the bottom. This method looked great to me, but I did not stay around long enough to find out the drawbacks, ifany.

A most commendable method is Bob Whitinan's treatment of Cryptanthus. He has a very large shade house, reinforced in winter with a covering of thick plastic or bubble plastic. It can get fairly cold in Texas, USA and Bob told me in the years he has been growing Bromellads, they have had a few sprinkles of snow. Large boulders are laid on the ground, marking the pathways. The beds are built up to the height of the boulders, with rich dark soil. The Cryptanthus were in their element, growing with their earth mother. They were a delight to behold, Australian hybrids in one bed, species in another and hybrids by USA in another bed, not hard to find when a customer wanted a particular plant. So if Bob Whitman can grow his Cryptanthus so well in Texas, we should be able to grow them better in warm and sunny Queensland.

One of the best methods I have seen was used by Robert Reilly of Buderim, some years ago now. In his large shade house, the centre was taken up by a large table waist high and from memory about 12 ft long and 6ft wide. On this was laid flat sheets of galvanised iron, with a lip of about 2 inches or so all around. This bed was filled with coarse river sand, always kept damp and the Cryptanthus loved it. If I were young again and had the wherewithal, this is the way I'd go.

Crypts on the average grow about 10 inches across, but who of us (the oldies I suppose), can remember that C. 'Goldie Langdon' of some years ago, when John Catlan took Champion of the Bromeliaceae at the Mt Cootha Show. It must have been 3 feet across. I asked John how he grew it to such dimensions and perfection. He said he could only attribute it to an employee, who used to throw the residue of fungicide over the end of the bench, when she had finished spraying other plants.

Maybe Crypts like fungicide occasionally. I did not have a camera at the time, but if any member has a photo of that phenomenal cryptanthus, I'd be most grateful of a copy.

Under artificial light, crypts respond very well. Because of the cold, some of our USA members have to grow their plants in cellars, lit and warmed by fluorescent tubes. They grow them as well as those who grow them under natural conditions.

From these methods which I have recounted, I hope there is one which appeals to you. I hope this article will induce more members to take up the challenge and grow these beautiful plants. I look forward to seeing a whole array of captivating cryptanthus, gracing the tables at the next Mt Cootha Combined Show.

The Earth Stars are not the lowly relations of the more flamboyant genera of the Bromeliaceae. They are given to us to gladden our days, as their counterparts, the heavenly stars, do at night.
________________________________________________________

Have a look in our library for more information on Cryptanthus - they really are a very attractive genus. With the variety of colours, bandings, sizes and growth habit, you’re sure to find one which appeals to you.

Check out these websites for beautiful illustrations of cryptanthus and other beautiful bromeliads and succulents.
Florida Council of Bromeliad Societies
Bromeliad Society International
Cryptanthus Picture Gallery
British Cactus and Succulent Society
Cactus and Succulent Societies

 

Extract from 'BROMLINK' Journal

Dated January - February 2004

What’s in a Name ?

More interesting definitions for your plants.

	Foetidus		having an offensive smell
	Foliaceus		leaf-like
	Form (a)		category of taxonomy below rank of varietas (Variety)
	Geminispinus		twin-spined
	Giganteus		very large and mighty
	Gracilis		slender
	Halo		salt
	Halophyte		a salt tolerant plant
	Hamatus		hooked at the tip, barbed
	Hydrochylus		with watery juice or sap
	Incanus		grey, hoary
	Incarnatus		flesh-coloured
	Leucodasys		white and shaggy
	Leucostele		a white column
	Lophanthus		with crested or plumed flowers

By Cactus Kate

UNDER THE MANGO TREE

Many terms used to describe the reproduction organs of plants are the same in the animal kingdom because the reproduction systems of animals, particularly humans, were investigated before those of plants and there are obvious resemblances between the two systems.

Placenta ~ the tissues surrounding and nourishing the foetus of an mammal
Placenta ~ the part of the ovary wall on which the ovules are born/develop, once pollinated the ovules turn into seed
Placentation ~ the arrangement of the placenta which is used by botanists as important in distinguishing between different plant families.
Hilum~ the ovule (future seed) is attached to the placenta by a stalk called the funiculus. This serves the same function as the umbilical cord does for a baby, taking nourishment from the placenta to feed the developing embryo/seed. If you have a look at a bean or pea seed, you will see a mark on the seed. This is the hilum and equivalent to the human navel. Early botanists would refer to the funiculus as the navel string.
As a matter of interest, the hot in hot peppers comes mainly from the funiculus and where it is attached to the placenta.

When a branch is overgrown by the expanding tree, the knot-hole is produced around the branch and becomes a boundary ready to isolate the branch if required, and when the branch dies the knot-hole, which is the boundary, is strengthened further by the tree introducing antibacterial chemicals into it and the knot, which is a shed branch. An injured tree sets up chemical boundaries within itself to help isolate the affected area and confine it. This is known as compartmentalizing.

How does relate to neoregelias and pups?

When offsets reach a third to half the size of the mother, you cut the plant from mother through the stolon. Some say let the cut dry for a few days, then plant. Others say it’s OK to pot the pup immediately. The younger the pup, the more relevant is the drying process. This following procedure is quick and easy.
On very young pups, at about 50mm or 2", the stolon is so soft that it is inevitable that the pup will rot if cut from the parent, but by using the cutting blade of bypass secateurs, sliding the smooth side down the trunk of the parent plant, you can cut the pup and flick it away keeping the ‘new moon’ segment intact. I believe the new moon segment is a natural barrier belonging to the pup which will be activated by the pup if and when the mother collapses. On removing the pup with the new moon piece whole, you will notice this new moon section is very hard compared to the stolon and the pup can start activating the barrier immediately for it’s own protection.
To solve problems you may encounter - use bypass secateurs with the flat side against the trunk. If you are not careful, you will crack the stolon without breaking it and rot will set in. If you are not careful, you can crack the pup at the neck of the stolon without breaking it off and it will rot - be careful!
The reason I use this method is that if I have a neo I want to multiply rapidly, I can get more pups, and get them established in a reasonable time. Nutrition must pass from mother through this new moon barrier for it’s entire existence, if not mother would immediately throw another pup.

By John Catlan

METHODS OF SECURING BROMELIAD PUPS

The aim is to keep the pups upright, secure, stable and not too deeply in the potting mix.
1. Wire Cut thick wire approximately 60 cm long and bend into u-shape. Place over up with ends of wire pushed into mix.
2. Tie a stick to the pup so that several inches are below end of pup and push into mix about 2 cm deep.
3. Poke 3 or more canes around pup in pot to provide support.
4. A good idea for securing cryptanthus pups is to loop elastic bands around the plant and the pot, pushing the roots into contact with the mix.
5. For pups which have been taken off too short, with stem damage
a) Place polystyrene cup upside down, push partially into potting mixture. Make a hole in the base of the cup and poke the pup through this until it touches the potting mix. (Sometimes it won’t reach). Over time, roots should form.
b) Place in the water in a large bromeliad. Either the pup will make roots, or will throw another pup. This also works well with costas and ginger.
6. Polystyrene box or sheets of polystyrene can have holes made in them, in which the pups are placed, with the sheet sitting over another box with potting mix in it.
7. Stoloniferous bromeliads - place potting mixture in pot after making a 2 cm horizontal cut in top side of pot, approximately 2 cm from top. Put pup in pot and insert sticks through side of pot across stolon and out other side. I use broken plastic hangers as sticks.
8. Some bromeliads are very unbalanced, eg neo compacta if is has one or more pups on one side. Tie plant in place with twine/wire (not copper). Place ½ brick or stones etc in bottom to support weight - fill with potting mix.

 

 

Growing Bromeliads Epiphytically in the Subtropical Home Garden

By Kerry Booth Tate ( written for BSI May - June 2003)

Most bromeliad growers I know, and know of, cultivate their plants in pots under shade cloth, or some form of protective structure. This is necessary when climatic conditions do not replicate the bromeliads' natural habitat. However, for those lucky gardeners who live in a subtropical climate, as I do, growing bromeliads in trees of the home garden can be successful and very effective.

I have many established trees in my garden, thanks to the previous owners. Moving here from a cool temperate region, I was greatly impressed and inspired by a huge flowering clump of the common Billbergia pyramidalis, climbing the trunk of an old Silky Oak (Grevillea robusta). Since then, my trees have become living sculptures - embellished with their ornaments, it's like Christmas all year!

With each new bromeliad purchase, I research its origin and growth habit in the limited literature available, and decide where and under which conditions it might thrive. When tying a bromeliad onto the branch or trunk of a tree, I do not use sphagnum moss around the root area of the plant. Sometimes, a purchased pot - grown bromeliad already has an established root ball including pine chunks. This can be easier to secure to a branch, especially if the plant is not stoloniferous. Well grown pups, with an obvious stolon, can be tied directly onto the upper side of a branch very easily. I cut dark-brown stretchy fabric (like “ribbing” or “lycra”) into 2cm (3/4”) wide strips, and wind it around the base/stolon of the plant and branch. Once the bromeliad has rooted firmly to its host, the tie can be removed. If the tie is unpleasantly obvious, Tillandsia usneiodes (Spanish moss), draped around the base of the plant, is an attractive camouflage. Some bromeliads' roots take longer than others to establish, and strong wind might cause another trip up the ladder to retie.
A newly-purchased bromeliad has usually been pampered under shade house conditions. Therefore, when initially exposed to the natural elements, the plants will deteriorate slightly - although subsequent pups will be tougher. Their vases will also fill with leaves and other debris, and spider webs are likely decorations. These are insignificant detractions, when viewing the overall effect. An occasional clean-out makes a difference - including pulling or cutting off dead lower leaves and old plants which are past their use-by date. From experience, the number 1 natural enemy of bromeliads in the landscape is hail, (number 2 is a big black possum!).

Moisture and humidity requirements for epiphytic bromeliads are similar to those in their natural habitat. In subtropical regions, natural rainfall in warmer months will usually suffice, although in unseasonably dry, hot weather, supplementary watering/misting is necessary for healthy growth. Brief, gentle rain showers will be beneficial to bromeliads growing in open, less densely foliaged trees, but any bromeliads growing under a dense canopy will miss out. I hand-water with a hose spray, about twice a week, when there is no decent rainfall in the warmer months. Early morning or late afternoon is the best time to water. Brown tips and inward - rolling of leaves are indicators of low humidity and inadequate moisture. In subtropical areas, winter is usually dry. I do not water any of my bromeliads in the coldest months, relying on the adage “better cold and dry, than cold and wet”. Root growth is obvious in autumn, with the constant moisture of the wet season.

If limited space is a subtropical gardener's plight, then going up can be a happy alternative, adding a new dimension to the garden. The form of each bromeliad is enhanced and unimpeded when grown epiphytically, if size and spacing are taken into account. Contrasting forms, size, foliage colour and patterning compliment each other if they are positioned artistically. The growth habit of each species or hybrid needs to be considered, regarding its future development. Most bromeliads seem to grow slower, and are more compact, when grown this way. There are many factors to consider when choosing the best tree for that special bromeliad, as are listed below:

Multi branched trees, especially at lower ground level, are ideal. Horizontal, or diagonally - angled branches, are more aesthetic and attachable than vertical trunks and branches (exception - the fibrous trunk of a tree fern)

Tree forks are good, especially for vriesea sp., and are often easier to secure large plants in the desired position.

Rough, permanent bark onto which roots more easily fasten are best - trees which shed their bark are unsuitable, as the bromeliads might also fall (exceptions - pine sp. and paperbarks).

Judicious pruning of selected branches, in as natural or creative an effect as desired, allows more choice when positioning and tying bromeliads to the trees.

Deciduous/semi-deciduous and evergreen trees may be suitable. Deciduous trees which are bare in winter allow the weaker sun to brighten the bromeliads' foliage. However, cold conditions might damage susceptible plants, without a canopy as protection.
Some deciduous and semi-deciduous trees, e.g. Bauhinia sp. (Orchid tree) and Calodendron capense (Cape chestnut), lose most or all of their leaves late winter, and do not commence regrowth until late spring, or even summer. Care should be taken when selecting bromeliads for these conditions, as shade-loving plants will likely suffer, unless they are low down and near the centre of a well-branched tree. The bromeliads in my bauhinia are stretched to the limit of their sun tolerance, until the tree finally grows lush new foliage in mid to late summer. The bromeliads show their obvious relief by starting to change in form and leaf colour, due to the shadier conditions.

The denseness of foliage, the size, and the shape of each tree will affect the light factor. Evergreen trees with a large, dense canopy would suit shade-loving bromeliads, both in the tree, and underneath it.

Aspect is of great light significance. A large tree will have different light conditions within it, e.g., a specimen tree, surrounded by lawn, will have brighter light on the outer branches of the northern and eastern sides of it, compared to the inner and south-facing branches (southern hemisphere - vice verse for northern hemisphere).

Light conditions will also differ when other trees, or buildings/structures/walls, are nearby. Every garden is unique, so its owner needs to look carefully at his/her trees, and all the variables which affect them.

Another important consideration is each potential bromeliad tree's exposure to wind. Bromeliads like plenty of ventilation, which they will receive, in most cases, by growing on any outdoor tree. However, extreme exposure to very strong wind may cause serious damage to the leaves of vulnerable bromeliads, such as soft leaved- vrieseas, guzmanias, and some aechmeas. Strong winds and dry conditions, such as we experience in northern N.S.W., Australia during early spring, necessitate extra protection for certain bromeliads-like choosing a more suitable micro-climate. The tougher-leaved aechmeas and stiff billbergias, once rooted to a branch, survive harsher conditions-in fact, many thrive on neglect.

Some trees on which to grow bromeliads

The following list comprises of trees on which I have either grown bromeliads (most), or have seen used successfully. Many other trees are likely to be suitable, if the previously-mentioned factors are considered.

Acer negundo (Box elder maple)
Banksia sp.
Bauhinia sp. (Orchid tree)
Buckinghamia celsissima (Ivory curl)
Calliandra haematocephala (Red powder puff)
Callistemon sp. (Bottlebrush)
Calodendrum capense (Cape chestnut)
Citrus sp. (Grapefruit, Lime, Mandarin)
Cotoneaster sp.
Cyathea sp. (Tree fern)
Delonix regia (Royal Poinciana)
Ficus sp. (Fig)
Grevillea sp. (Silky oak, Sandra Gordon, other small tree varieties)
Jacaranda mimosifolia
Melaleuca sp. (paperbark and rough bark)
Omalanthus populifolius (Bleeding heart)

Pinus sp. (some pines and other conifers)
Plumeria sp. (Frangipani)
Prunus sp. (Peach, Plum)
Syzygium and Acmena sp. (Lillypilly)
Tibouchina sp. (Lasiandra)

Recommended bromeliads for epiphytic culture

Most bromeliads which grow epiphytically in their natural habitat should be suitable in the subtropical home garden, if specific requirements of each species or variety are closely met. Terrestrial genera, such as Ananas, Bromelia, Dyckia, and Orthophytum, are unsuitable.

The winning genera for epiphytic culture in my garden are:
Aechmea, Billbergia, Canistropsis, Canistrum, Hohenbergia (some), Neoregelia (especially the small growing and stoloniferous types), Nidularium (low in tree), Portea, Quesnelia, Tillandsia, Vriesea and several bigeneric species.

Of the many different varieties of bromeliads grown epiphytically in my garden, I have agonized over choosing only 40 to recommend. They are all species - except Neoregelia Fireball and X Neomea Strawberry.

Hybrids and cultivars, with any of the listed plants as a parent, are also recommended for epiphytic culture.

Top 40 Hit Parade

	Aechmea chantinii		Neoregelia compacta
	Aechmea fendleri		Neoregelia 'Fireball'
	Aechmea fosteriana		Neoregelia olens
	Aechmea lueddemanniana		Neoregelia pauciflora
	Aechmea nudicaulis (all varieties)		Neoregelia punctatissima
	Aechmea orlandiana (all varieties)		Nidularium procerum
	Aechmea penduliflora		Quesnelia marmorata
	Aechmea racinae		Quesnelia testudo
	Aechmea retusa		Tillandsia geminiflora
	Billbergia alfonsi joannis		Tillandsia juncea
	Billbergia elegans		Tillandsia stricta
	Billbergia leptopoda		Tillandsia tricolor
	Billbergia vittata		Tillandsia usneiodes
	Billbergia zebrina		Vriesea carinata
	Canistrum fosterianum		Vriesea flammea
	Canistrum seidelianum		Vriesea philippo coburgii
	Canistrum triangulare		Vriesea platynema (all varieties)
	Hohenbergia correia araujoi		Vriesea racinae
	Hohenbergia stellata		Vriesea simplex
	X Neomea 'Strawberry'		Vriesea vagans